Outdoor kitchen cabinet dimensions
The short answer
Every cabinet is 900 mm high and 656 mm deep. Only the width changes.
Widths run from 400 mm to 1182 mm across twelve modules. That single shared height and depth is what lets any combination join into one flat, continuous run — and it means the footprint of your kitchen is just the widths added up.
Master table
All ten cabinets and the two end panels
Millimetres, as supplied to your fabricator. The widths are fixed, not a range. Handing appears only on the two corner cabinets; the dimension is identical either way.
| Code | Module | Width | Depth | Height | Handing | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| HW-01 | Sink cabinet | 800 | 656 | 900 | — | Sink, tap and waste included; trap void under the bowl |
| HW-02 | Gas cabinet | 800 | 656 | 900 | — | Cylinder holder, vented at the base; up to a 10 L bottle |
| HW-03 | Oven cabinet, 1182 | 1182 | 643 | 900 | — | Widest module; opening cut to your appliance |
| HW-04 | Storage cabinet | 800 | 656 | 900 | — | Two doors, stainless shelf, false door |
| HW-05 | Drawer cabinet | 800 | 656 | 900 | — | 450 mm low drawer over doors |
| HW-06 | Side burner cabinet | 800 | 656 | 900 | — | One burner aperture in the worktop; open bay below, no shelf. Gas from HW-02 beside it |
| HW-07 | Fridge cabinet | 900 | 656 | 900 | — | Bay for a built-in outdoor fridge |
| HW-08 | Left-deep corner cabinet | 1075 | 656 | 900 | L | False door on the left side panel |
| HW-09 | Right-deep corner cabinet | 1075 | 656 | 900 | R | False door on the right side panel |
| HW-10 | Single-door storage | 400 / 450 / 500 | 656 | 900 | — | Narrow fill for the end of a run; one door, one shelf, left or right handed |
| HW-11 | Left sight panel | 656 | 18 | 890 | — | End panel, closes an exposed left-hand side. Listed as depth × thickness × height |
| HW-12 | Right sight panel | 656 | 18 | 890 | — | End panel, closes an exposed right-hand side. Listed as depth × thickness × height |
Before you choose a layout
Five readings, in this order
Take these before you talk to anybody, including us. Most disagreements about fit come from measuring one thing and assuming another.
- Usable wall length, at worktop height — not at the floor
Mark where the run actually starts and stops. Downpipes, taps, a step, a garden tap, a power point: anything within the 656 mm depth eats the run. Measure at 900 mm height, which is where the counter will be, because a wall can lean.
- Height to the first obstruction above the counter
Window sill, pergola beam, awning box, range hood, a low roof at the wall. You need roughly 550 mm above the worktop for the grill lid to open and clear. If you are under a pergola, this number decides whether the grill can go there at all.
- Depth available from wall to the edge — and what is on the edge
656 mm body plus 20 mm overhang, so 676 mm minimum. On a balcony, remember the balustrade: it is usually 1,000–1,100 mm high and it will be behind your counter, so the sink tap must clear it or go on the other side.
- Walking clearance behind the cook
900 mm minimum from the cabinet front to whatever is behind. Two people working a run wants 1,100–1,200 mm. This is the number people sacrifice first and regret most.
- The grill's own cut-out drawing
Not the grill's outside size. The cut-out dimension is usually 30–60 mm smaller than the outside, and it is the number the cabinet is made to. Photograph the spec page or the rating plate.
What actually fits
Three common runs, three real module mixes
If your measured length is near one of these, start from the mix and adjust one module. Every combination below keeps the counter continuous.
| Available wall | Module mix | Total | What you get |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2,400 mm | HW-01 sink 800 + HW-02 gas 800 + HW-05 drawer 800 | 2,400 mm | Exactly three modules: sink, cylinder and a drawer stack. No end panel needed if both ends butt a wall. |
| 3,000 mm | HW-01 800 + HW-03 oven 1182 + HW-04 storage 800 | 2,782 mm | The wide appliance bay with a sink one side and storage the other. 218 mm spare. |
| 3,600 mm | HW-06 oven 800 + HW-01 800 + HW-02 800 + HW-04 800 | 3,200 mm | Full cooking line: oven, sink, gas and storage. 400 mm spare — take it as a second drawer cabinet or leave it as a gap for a bin. |
| 4,200 mm | HW-01 800 + HW-06 oven 800 + HW-05 drawer 800 + HW-04 800 + HW-07 fridge 900 | 4,100 mm | Cold end to hot end: sink and fridge, drawer and storage between, oven in the middle. 100 mm spare for tolerance. |
Totals are body widths only. End panels are 20 mm — the door panel thickness — and are added at every exposed end where you want the run closed to counter level.
Where measurements go wrong
Five traps that cost a rebuild
01
Measuring to the rendered face, not the structural wall
Render, cladding and tile add 15–30 mm. A run set out to the render line can end up 30 mm too long once the finish goes on — or leave a gap you cannot fill with an end panel.
02
Forgetting the grill lid swing
A lid that opens back needs clearance behind and above the hinge. Under a fixed shelf or a low beam, the lid will not open fully — and a half-open lid is a fire risk, not just an annoyance.
03
Assuming the deck is level
Timber decks and paved slopes fall away for drainage, typically 1:80. Over 3 m that is 37 mm. The castors take it up, but a worktop of stone does not bend — check level across the full run before ordering a stone top.
04
Quoting cut-out size as grill size
Manufacturers publish both. The cut-out is what the cabinet is made to, and it is smaller. Sending the outside dimension is the single most common cause of a grill that does not drop in.
05
Leaving no gap at the ends
Two walls at right angles are rarely a true 90°. Always finish a run 10–20 mm short and close the gap with a scribed end panel, rather than building to the exact measured length.
06
Planning gas before the cabinets
The cylinder cabinet has to be reachable and vented at the base, and the gas line has to enter from a side you choose. Decide that before the modules are ordered, not after.
FAQ
Dimension questions
What is the finished worktop height?
900 mm to the top of the cabinet body. A stainless counter adds 20–30 mm; stone typically 20 mm or 30 mm depending on the build-up. The finished surface lands at 920–940 mm, which matches a standard indoor kitchen so nothing feels wrong when you carry habits outside.
Can I cut a cabinet down to fit a gap?
No — the widths come from panel tooling, so a 600 mm module cannot become 550 mm. The right move is to choose the next width down and close the remainder with an 18 mm end panel plus a filler strip. We will tell you exactly how much gap the range can absorb for your length.
Is the 2.5 inch castor included in the 900 mm?
Yes. 900 mm is measured with the castors fitted and unextended. Levelling can add up to about 15 mm per corner, which matters when you are setting a stone worktop against a fixed height elsewhere.
Do I need a plinth or a base?
No. The cabinets stand on their own castors, so you do not build a plinth. It does mean the gap under the cabinet is open — if you want it closed for looks or to stop leaves blowing under, say so and we will quote a recessed kickboard.
How much does the counter overhang?
Around 20 mm past the body on open faces. Against a wall, overhang only the front and keep a small gap at the back so water running down the wall does not sit against the counter edge.
Send your length and grill model — we will send the module list back.
A photo of the wall with a tape measure in shot is enough to start. You get the module schedule, the finished run length, and the two numbers we need you to confirm before production.
Page last updated · Reviewed by the BOGEQI technical team, Foshan Bogeqi Cabinetry Co., Ltd.
